- Tool Used For Screws In Bottom Of Mac Computers
- Tool Used For Screws In Bottom Of Macbook Pro
- Tool Used For Screws In Bottom Of Mac Shortcut
- Tool Used For Screws In Bottom Of Machine
Today I’ll be replacing cracked screen on a 13-inch MacBook Air. This laptop was dropped and the screen got messed up. The left side of the screen still displays normally but the right side shows only bleeding colors.
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You can use this guide for replacing damaged display assembly on any 13-inch MacBook Air produced in 2013, 2014, 2015 and 2017.
We’ll be removing some internal components and screws so be organized, make notes. Keep track of the screws.
New or pre-owned display assemblies available here: https://ebay.to/2wq73Mw
You’ll need following tools: P2 Pentalobe 1.2mm screwdriver, T5 and T8 Torx screwdriver, tweezers and plastic pry tool.
STEP 1.
Remove ten P5 screws securing the bottom cover. Two screws circled in yellow are longer than eight screws circled in red.
Separate the bottom cover from the body of the laptop.
STEP 2.
Disconnect the battery by pulling the tab attached to the connector.
STEP 3.
Remove the black flex cable connecting the MagSafe board with the logic board.
In order to unplug the flex cable, lift it up from the connector using plastic pry tool.
Disconnect cable on both ends.
The flex cable attached to the fan by adhesive tape.
Separate cable from the fan and remove it.
STEP 4.
Disconnect cooling fan cable from the logic board.
Unlock the connector by lifting up the locking tab at a 90 degree angle (red arrow). Pull the cable from the connector (yellow arrow).
STEP 5.
Remove three T5 screws securing the fan. All three screws have different length. Pay attention which screw goes where.
Lift up the heatsink gasket.
Tool Used For Screws In Bottom Of Mac Computers
Remove cooling fan from the laptop.
STEP 6.
Disconnect the MagSafe board power cable from the logic board.
STEP 7.
Disconnect the webcam cable. I use tweezers to push the webcam cable plug out of the connector.
Unroute the webcam cable.
TIP: if the cable got stuck under the MagSafe board, remove one screw securing the board and lift it up a little bit. It’s not necessary to remove the board completely. Just lifting up the left side should be enough to release the cable.
STEP 8.
Unplug antenna cables from the Wi-Fi Bluetooth card.
STEP 9.
Unroute antenna cables from the guided path in the top case.
STEP 10.
Now we are going to disconnect the display screen cable.
Unlock the connector by lifting up the metal bracket.
Pull the cable out of the connector by the black tab.
After all cables are unplugged and unrouted we ready to remove the display.
There are six T8 screws securing display hinges.
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STEP 11.
Remove three screws securing the left hinge.
There is a metal bracket attached to the antenna cable.
STEP 12.
Remove three more screws securing the right hinge.
STEP 13.
Separate the display assembly from the laptop body.
Now we are ready for replace the damaged display with a new one.
In MacBook Air laptops the LCD screen is permanently glued inside the display assembly. If the screen got cracked or damaged otherwise, it’s necessary to replace the entire assembly as it shown on the following picture.
Here are a couple of tips for reassembly.
Tool Used For Screws In Bottom Of Macbook Pro
In order to make sure that your new display mounted correctly, do the following.
Install just one screw on each hinge but do not tighten them yet.
Close the display and move it as necessary to make sure it’s seated evenly on each side of the laptop.
After that tighten two screws and install remaining screws securing the hinges.
When installing antenna cable back in place, push them into the guided path using plastic pry tool.
Reassemble the laptop following all steps in the opposite direction.
Have you ever repaired an iPhone? If you have done this before, you may find that there are so many different size of the iPhone screws. Put all these screws back in the right place should be important when you reassembling the iPhone, cause if you don’t, there will be a big risk damaging your phone. Now we’re going to reveal all the iPhone screws to figure out what exact screwdriver you really need when repairing the iPhone.
1. Pentalobe screws
First we’ll start from the 2 outer screws at the bottom near the lightning dock connector, these 2 are Pentalobe screws, which is 5-point tamper-resistant screw used first by Apple to secure the battery in the MacBook Pro, there you’ll need a P2 Pentalobe screwdriver, which is 0.8mm size, to undo these 2 screws. Although different iPhone features different length of the Pentalobe screws, still they can share the same P2 Pentalobe screwdriver.
Tips: Many people complained that the Pentalobe screws are prone to stripping even with the right screwdriver, use smaller Phillips screwdriver to put those back will be more convenient compared with using Pentalobe screwdriver.
2. Standoff screws
What’s more complicated are the inside screws, you may think that all the screws inside are Phillips screws, well, that may not corrected. There are still many special screws inside.
For iPhone 4, except for the Phillips screws, there is a 4.8mm standoff screw inside, near the headphone jack.
While for 4S, there is one more 3.6mm standoff screw along beside the logic board near the battery connector.
For iPhone 5, you can see that there are 3 standoff screws size 2.7mm which securing the logic board to the rear housing, the top one is non-magnetic and the other 2 are on the bottom side near the battery.
Also the iPhone 5C features 3 standoff screws size 2.7mm. As showed in the following picture
For 5S, there are four 2.8mm standoff screws when you disassemble the logic board.
As for iPhone 6, there is a 2.3mm standoff screw on top right of the battery, while 6 Plus has 2.
Look at new iPhone 6S Plus, unsurprisingly there is still a 2.2mm Phillips standoff screw securing the logic board.
Even with the small size iPhone SE, which also features four 2.8mm standoff screws like 5S did.
Here we can see it clearer from this picture below about the differences between normal Phillips screw and standoff screw.
The standoff screw looks like Phillips screw in some way, however there is a sunken hole within the screw and four flutes on the edges are also different from the normal Phillips screw.
So there you should get a special screwdriver like this one to undo the standoff screw.
Tips: you can undo the standoff screw with a 2.5mm flathead screwdriver if you don’t own a special standoff screwdriver.
And for the iPhone 6S, it is a little bit different, the special screw is located on the top right of the battery, which is 2.5mm Hex standoff screw.
So when you disassemble the iPhone 6S, you’d better prepare the special M2.5 Hex socket screwdriver, otherwise it’s so hard to take out this unique screw.
3. Phillips screws
Except the special Pentalobe screws and standoff screws, the left are all normal Phillips screws. Though these screws are in different length, luckily they can share the same Phillips screwdriver when you disassemble your iPhone.
However, we’d like to mention that from iPhone 4 series to the 6 generations, the Phillips screws are changed a little bit.
For iPhone 4/4s/5/5C/5SE, you’ll need the Phillips#000 screwdriver while the iPhone 6/6 Plus/6S/6S Plus requiring the Phillips#00 screwdriver.
Warm Tips:
When disassemble the screws, keep all of them organized (we suggest to use the magnetic screwmat), cause if you mixed them up, like if the screws get swapped and one of the longer screws is placed in the hole for the shorter it will damage the logic board, causing the phone boot loop, display a blue screen or showing error 14 or error 9 etc. Also over-tighten the screw will damage the phone either.
So if you have any questions or any ideas about how to deal with iPhone screws easier, do not hesitate to share with us!
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